Come to Harstad for history, good food, fabulous islands and green fjordscapes
Harstad is the friendly city in the north, with some great historic attractions and a welcoming city centre. It is also the base for exploration of all the islands around Bjarkøy and the green and friendly fjord landscapes in Kvæfjord.
Ask anyone in the north about Harstad, and they would say with a smile “Harstad is such as koselig city”. By koselig, they mean welcoming, friendly, and intimate, a pleasure to come to. Visitors from further away are more struck by the fabulous location between green, forested hills and the wide Vågsfjord with views to distant peaks on other islands. One comes to Harstad to indulge in history, to eat well and to explore a wonderful, green landscape of fjords, mountains, and islands. The unhurried feel and the unexplored charm also add to the experience. But what should you be on the lookout for? We start at Trondenes, just outside the city centre.
The old church of Trondenes is a gem
The church of Trondenes is the world’s northernmost medieval church, built in stages from 1220 to 1440. Its interior houses no less than 3 magnificent Gothic triptychs from around 1500, along with other artworks from various cate surrounded by remnants of 12th c. fortifications. Treading carefully on the sacred ground around the church, one can feel the sweep of history while gazing across the Vågsfjord to the distant peaks.
Suddenly, you’re in 1200
There is nothing sacred about the ground outside the Trondenes Historic Centre. Here, a 12th century farm, Trondenes Medieval Farm, has been brought back to life, complete with goats and hens running around. The farmers, dressed to impress à la 1200, invite you hospitably to their turf longhouse for a chat about the good old days. You can even try your hand at archery. And finish it all off with a look inside the stave church being built right now. Kids have a great time, and adults experience history like never before.
The exhibits give the background
You have a lot of fun outdoors, and then you get the full context in the indoor exhibits. Follow history from the bronze age necklace and the iron age cauldron through the viking age and the Middle Ages. It’s all wonderfully well explained, with a dash of humour, and filled with artefacts from various ages.
The Adolf Gun is a giant
No bigger guns were made in World War II than the Adolf Guns. Originally built to arm giant naval ships, they were placed atop the new fortress at Trondenes in 1943. Today you can visit the fort at regular hours and get the story of this gun that could hit targets more than 40 km away. Somebody paid the price, though. In the Trondenes Historical Centre, there is the exhibit of Konstantin Seredintsev. He was one of many prisoners of war worked to death building the fortress. What makes him special, is that he kept diary, giving us invaluable insight into life in a prison camp. The remnants of the camp are marked on the field just north of the medieval church.
Spend the day at Trondenes
You reach Trondenes from town on the Stien langs sjøen (“Path along the sea”), leading along the shoreline with little beaches, residential areas and boathouses, meeting locals who are walking their dogs. Look at all the sights and have lunch at the museum café and finish off with a walk down to Altevågen bay, where there are remnants of big boat houses from the Viking Age. Local buses and taxis are of course available, and you can hire an e-bike in town for maximum flexibility.
Spend time in the koselig city centre
The city centre of Harstad is a mix of colourful art nouveau stone houses, traditional Norwegian wooden architecture, post war functionalism and modernity. It pays to look out for the architecture. The centre is partly pedestrianised and inviting for a stroll. Good places to linger include the café Esencia, the delicatessen Mat av Vahl and the humorous bakery Bakerinnen.
In Harstad, you eat well
Found on the richest ocean in the world, and in the middle of some of the planet’s northernmost agricultural areas, Harstad offers a distinct cuisine. For elevated dining, go no further than downtown restaurant Bark, with great seaviews from every table. Røkenes gård is a 250 year old farm, serving hearty fare in their barn restaurant a bit out of town. Gois brings in the tastes from across Asia. Skafferiet is a delicatessen based on local produce, a great place for authentic, edible souvenirs and gifts.
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The island of Bjarkøy was home to the fiercest of the Vikings
Every Norwegian school kid is familiar with Tore Hund, the mighty Viking chieftain who slayed our national saint at the legendary battle of Stiklestad in 1030. On his home island, Bjarkøy, you can see the outline of his boathouse in a field. Given the size of it, he must have had one of the biggest ships in the Viking world. The central part of the island is a green field filled with farms, houses, the church and plenty of other remnants from the past, going back to before the Viking age. Across the water, the peaks on Grytøya island form a mighty view. You can go there on a daytrip by catamaran, drive there, rent an e-bike or even stay the night. In the small shop, you can have lunch in the coffee corner.
See the other islands
There are more islands to explore. Grytøya is a relatively big island with jagged, steep mountains, but the farmland on the southern slopes is lush and inviting. The cold war fortress at Grøtavær can be visited, as well as the old houses at the local museum Grytøy Bygdetun. Sandsøya is a low, green and fertile island, where you can have cinnamon buns at the little farmshop at Tinghuset. The outer most islands are the twins of Meløyvær and Krøttøy, with a handful of inhabitants and a pub. The little islets are full of sandy, coralline beaches around lagoon-like coves.
How best to explore the islands
The easiest way is to board the catamarans in Harstad’s port, acting like a bus between the islands. The sporty will of course hire e-bikes, which you can also bring onboard the catamaran. If you have a car, study the ferry timetables well. You can also go on sailing tours among the islands, a RiB can take you to the Krykkjeberget kittiwake colony, there is also an archipelago taxi and you explore by kayak or sup. There is not an open restaurant on every island, so you should bring some lunch from Harstad’s well-stocked delicatessens.
Kvæfjord is the garden of Northern Norway
The fjord Kvæfjord west of Harstad enjoys a sheltered, south-west facing position, and here a surprising amount of berries and vegetables is grown. The strawberries are ripe in the second half of July. Renowned for their aroma, they are incredibly popular locally. Just eat them directly from of the punnet. Raspberries and blackcurrants are also popular, as is the local veg. Delicacies made from mutton from local sheep and pork from free-range pigs are also tasty. Refsnes Matglede is a café where you can try out the food, either in their simple restaurant or as a souvenir.
Look for art, history and sheer madness along the fjord
When venturing around the fjord, one can stop at the Hemmestadbrygga, an old wharf turned into museum. Found right on the fjord, it’s as picturesque as it gets. The Kvæfjord Bygdetun (local museum) is also part of traditional culture. The Trastad Samlinger is a collection of art by people with intellectual disabilities. Here you can also get an impression of life at the now closed-down care home for people with intellectual disabilities. Kasfjord City is the fastest growing city in Norway, and is miniature city filled with fun stories and episodes. Children are captivated, while adults chuckle at the subtle humour woven between the lines. In summer, one should time the visit at Nupen to midnight. The view to the Midnight Sun at this point is breath-taking, and it has been declared the most romantic place in Norway.
Paradise beaches await you on the way south
The road from Harstad towards Narvik or Lofoten is a beautiful drive through farmland and forest, with great views. In good weather, you can join the Harstad inhabitants at Grasholman (“Grassy islets”), an area of sandy beaches and calm coves with excellent swimming. If the weather is less co-operative, you can go for a beach walk in solitude. Nice photo ops down south include the local museum Sandtorg bygdetun, the monumental suspension bridge of Tjeldsundbrua and the old trading post, now resort hotel, Sandtorgholmen.
Go for easy hikes with great views
The wonderful scenery around Harstad is also wonderfully accessible, even for the casual ambler crew. Folkeparken, the green belt above Harstad’s city centre, offers an easy hike to the Musvatnet lake. Go to the hill Gangsåstoppen in the early morning to the the Hurtigruten ship calling at Harstad. Keipen, north of the city, is also easy, and from here you see the whole fjord system and the open sea, possibly the best view/effort ratio around. Elgen, a bit further north, is more demanding, but the views are well worth the effort. Tverrelvtindan south of town and Sætertind near the Tjeldsund bridge are all-day tours with great views, suited for fit people of all ages.
Harstad is a city of culture and festivals
The Festival of Northern Norway is a major cultural event in the north. In the last week of June, the city is filled with concerts, dance performances, theatre, and art exhibits. The old church, the dock outside the Culture House, in a pub; the Festival of Northern Norway is everywhere. A fun sidekick are the Festival Games at Stangnes, with athletic competitions. The Harstad Art Society has its own summer exhibition every year. Much earthier and local are the Evenskjerdagan local festival in the small community of Evenskjer south of Harstad in late July. In early August, the rock festival at Gressholman gathers a great local crowd at the lovely beaches.
Harstad enjoys the Midnight Sun for two months
Harstad is a good 300 km inside the Arctic Circle, and the Midnight sun shines for a full two months in Harstad, from the 22nd of May to the 22nd of July, provided you have an unobstructed view to the north. Islands and hills might block your view, so it’s a good idea to ask the locals for a good viewpoint near to where you are. Downtown; the end of the catamaran jetty is a good place.
Sunny spells, occasional swells; the summer weather is entertaining
Being far north and facing the Atlantic, sunshine and high temperatures are far from guaranteed in Harstad. However, you might be surprised by +25 and glorious sunshine. Cool and wet is another possibility. That said, Harstad enjoys a more stable weather than many other places in the north, given its sheltered location on the eastern slope of the mountainous Hinnøya island. Make sure you are dressed for any occasion, from swim pants to woollen mittens.
Practical stuff:
Accommodation: Harstad has good hotels in the city centre, a campsite and several places to stay
Attractions: Read about each of our attractions.
Activities: Hiking, kayaking, rib, the pump track, sailing, fishing… the list is long.
Distances:
Combine your Harstad stay with other destinations in the area.
to add an item to your Itinerary basket.
Harstad is the perfect base for your holiday in Northern Norway. With its' central location right between Tromsø and Lofoten, you can easily go on daytrips in the region whilst spending the night in the surroundings of Harstad.
